This is a picture of the TiVoNET Revision 2.3 board. The
major differences between the Rev 1 board and this one are: the patch resistor
on the original TiVoNET board has been moved to the front, the Tantalum
capacitor at the power connector has been moved over away from the power
connector, a jumper trace was added in the middle of J5 to set IRQ5, and the
guide holes for the PCI connector were enlarged so that the PCI connector will
fit properly.
ID
Description
Markings
Notes
U1
74LCX245 Octal Transciever w/ Tristate Outputs
LCX245
U2
74LCX245 Octal Transciever w/ Tristate Outputs
LCX245
#1
U3
LSI1016-80LJ GAL
LSI
U4
74LCX245 Octal Transciever w/ Tristate Outputs
LCX245
R1
Resistor 1.2K 1/4 Watt 5%
Brown - Red - Red - Gold
R2
Resistor 4.7K 1/4 Watt 5%
Yellow - Violet - Red - Gold
R3
Resistor 22k 1/4 Watt 5%
Red - Red - Orange - Gold
R4
Resistor 100 ohm 1/4 Watt 5%
Brown - Black - Brown - Gold
#4
C1
Capacitor .1uf Ceramic
104z
C2
Capacitor .1uf Ceramic
104z
C3
Capacitor .01uf Ceramic
103
#2
C4
Capacitor .1uf Ceramic
104z
C5
Capacitor .1uf Ceramic
104z
C6
Capacitor 10uf Tantalum
10 35+
C7
Capacitor .1uf Ceramic
104z
J1
PCI Connector
J2
ISA Connector
J3
Power Connector
J4
GAL Programmer Connector - 8 position single row
#2
J5
IRQ Selector Jumper- 10 position dual row
#3
LED1
Power Led
#4
#1- Not necessary. This is used if someone wants to try to get
Plug-and-Play working.
#2 - Not necessary when using a pre-programmed GAL. All of the GAL's
from 9th Tee are pre-programmed.
#3 - Not necessary when using a Legacy ISA NE2000 Ethernet Board. The
IRQ is set to IRQ5 with a trace on the middle pins of J5. If you wish to
use a different IRQ, cut the trace and install the connector.
#4 - Required for the power indicator light on the board.
David Ranch was kind enough to provide very detailed assembly
instructions and pictures and they can be seen here.
Mark's Assembly Tips:
First check the list above and make sure that you have all of
the items listed.
You will need a 15-30 watt soldering iron with a very small
tip. You will also need very small diameter solder. It
is helpful to have desoldering braid and/or a desolder pump to fix
solder bridges.
Start with the GAL (U3). Position it like the picture
above shows. Start soldering one pin on each corner.
Holding the board, the GAL, the solder and the solder iron takes
about 4 hands so figure out what is the best method for you.
I use a circuit board vice and hold the GAL down and hold the
solder in place with my left hand and hold the iron with my right
hand. It might help if you have someone that can hold the
gal down. After you have the corners solder down, solder all
of the pins on each side.
Do yourself a favor and stop soldering at this point. Get
a bright light and magnifying glass and inspect the solder joints
of the GAL for bridges and cold joints. It also helps to use
an ohm meter and a sharp set of probes to make sure that none of
the pins are bridged. Make sure that the GAL is properly
soldered, because once the ISA & PCI connectors are soldered
down, it is very difficult to inspect the GAL.
Next solder the two or three surface mount chips (U1, U2,
U4). U2 is not required for normal operation and is only
there in case someone wants to try to get plug and play
working. Line up the chips with the notch printed on the
board. Hold the chips down and solder the corner pins first
and then go back and solder the rest of the pins. After
these are soldered, inspect the solder joints with a bright light
and magnifying glass.
Solder the 4 resistors (R1, R2, R3, R4) next. Just match
the color codes to those in the table above. It does not
matter which way they are soldered in. Just bend the leads
so that they will fit thru the holes. Then solder the
resistor and then clip the leads close to the board with cutters.
Next solder the .1uf Capacitors (C1, C2, C4, C5, C7). They
are marked 104z. It does not matter which way they are
soldered in. Just bend the leads so that they will fit thru
the holes. Then solder the capacitor and then clip the leads
close to the board with cutters.
Solder the .01 Capacitor next if you will be programming your
GAL. It is not required if you have a preprogrammed GAL from
9th Tee. It is marked 103.
Next solder the Tantalum Capacitor (C6). It is marked 10
35+. Make sure and line the + on the Capacitor with the + on
the board.
Next install the Green Power LED. The longer lead is
positive.
Next, solder the power connector (J4).
If you are using a normal ISA Ethernet board that can be
configured to IRQ5, you will probably not need to install
J5. It is used to select the IRQ. There is a trace on
the board that connects the middle two pins together and this
selects IRQ5 which is the default that most people should
use. If you wish to be able to select IRQ's, then cut the
trace between the two middle pins of J5 (on the top of the board)
and solder the connector to the board.
If you are going to program your GAL, then you will need to
solder in J4. It is not needed if you bought a preprogrammed
GAL from 9th Tee. If you do solder it in, you will need to
remove one of the pins in the header. Just pull out the one
that does not have a hole in the circuit board.
Before soldering the ISA and PCI connectors, get the light and
magnifying glass back out and inspect all of the solder
joints. You may also want to use an ohm meter and sharp
probes. Just touch one probe to the pin on the component and
the other probe the the solder and sure that you have continuity.
Also, on the chips, you might want to check each pin to make sure
that you do not have continuity with the next pin (solder
bridge). Once the connectors are soldered on, it is
nearly impossible to inspect all of the solder joints.
Next, solder the ISA connector. Before installing the
connector, visually inspect the pins on the connector to make sure
they are all straight. Carefully line up the pins and press
the connector down against the board. Solder the two end
pins on each end first to secure the connector and then solder
each of the remaining pins.
Finally, solder the PCI connector. Before installing the
connector, visually inspect the pins on the connector to make sure
they are all straight. This is very important since there are so
many pins to line up. Carefully line up the pins and press
the connector down against the board. Solder the end pins on
each end first to secure the connector and then solder each of the
remaining pins.
Get the light and magnifying glass back out and check all of the
ISA and PCI pins for good solder joints. If you see any
suspect joints, just reheat the joint and add a little
solder. While you are at it, double check all of the solder
joints one more time.